Features

Quebec’s Lost Coast

Quebec’s Lost Coast

WHAT BEGINS as a nearly imperceptible feeling of movement turns, surreptitiously, into a heavy seesawing that wobbles my beer in its glass. The dining room servers, going from smiles to poker faces, move to-and-fro like tightrope walkers in peril. Outside, surly waves the size of box mall stores churn and roil in the mid-day sun […]

Churchill: On Canada’s Arctic Edge

Churchill: On Canada’s Arctic Edge

“You’re out here on as good a day as you’ll ever get,” shouts the guide as he throttles the engine of our inflatable boat, steering it towards the mouth of the river. Decked out in a wetsuit and snorkelling gear, I sit on the edge of the speeding vessel like a special operations frogman, riding […]

The Colonel’s Caravan – Travelling in Egypt’s Western Desert

The Colonel’s Caravan – Travelling in Egypt’s Western Desert

“Hit the gas hard and stay on my tracks,” our driver orders into the radio before stepping on the accelerator and catapulting us up a long and narrow wadi of red sand rising between two rocky plateaus. Tension grips the passengers as the vehicle fishtails wildly and as our driver assumes the air and intensity […]

Egypt’s Window on the World

Egypt’s Window on the World

“My whole life was preparation for this job,” says Ismail Serageldin, as he flashes a wry smile and gazes out of his fifth-storey office window overlooking the Alexandria corniche. What might otherwise seem like an unusual comment coming from a man who gave up a sparkling career in international development to return to Egypt to […]