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Features

Moose Factory, Moosonee, Ontario, Canada
Adventure, Features

Moose Factory Tough

The Ontario Northland Railway station in Cochrane – a sleepy Franco-Ontarian boreal hamlet and the birthplace of Tim Horton – looked every bit the embarkation point to places off the grid. A mob of passengers waiting to board the 9:00am…

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Fishermen on a motorboat on the Lower North Shore of Quebec
Features, Travel

Quebec’s Lost Coast

WHAT BEGINS as a nearly imperceptible feeling of movement turns, surreptitiously, into a heavy seesawing that wobbles my beer in its glass. The dining room servers, going from smiles to poker faces, move to-and-fro like tightrope walkers in peril. Outside,…

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The town of Shaqlawa in the Kurdistan region of Northern Iraq.
Adventure, Features, Middle East

The Kurdish Miracle

Approach any border crossing—those gateways along imaginary and often arbitrary lines—and chances are, even in the best of times, you’ll be met with a certain dose of concern. But when that portal lies smack in the middle of the most…

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Features, Middle East

Egypt’s Window on the World

“My whole life was preparation for this job,” says Ismail Serageldin, as he flashes a wry smile and gazes out of his fifth-storey office window overlooking the Alexandria corniche. What might otherwise seem like an unusual comment coming from a…

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