Middle East

Syrian War Rattles Lebanon’s Northern Border

Syrian War Rattles Lebanon’s Northern Border

Descending the winding road through hills of scrub brush into Lebanon’s region of Wadi Khaled, one encounters a number of oddities absent in other towns along the way: makeshift tent villages, mobs of dishevelled children, and a palpable sense of morose apprehension visible in the body language of local residents. Situated at the northernmost tip […]

A Journey to Turkish Kurdistan

“In less than two hours you will arrive at the end of the world,” said Mehmet, the owner of the teahouse where the minibus bound for Bahçesaray departs. Our long morning of animated conversation came to an end as I squeezed into the small vehicle overloaded with passengers and their cargo of pickles and cooking […]

A PKK Fighter Puts Down his Gun

A PKK Fighter Puts Down his Gun

There was nothing out of the ordinary about Firat Uzun when I first met him in the heart of Duhok’s bustling bazaar. This was in the foothills of the high mountains of northern Iraq, not far from the border with Turkey and Iran, and like many of the other friendly Kurds in that little corner […]

The Colonel’s Caravan – Travelling in Egypt’s Western Desert

The Colonel’s Caravan – Travelling in Egypt’s Western Desert

“Hit the gas hard and stay on my tracks,” our driver orders into the radio before stepping on the accelerator and catapulting us up a long and narrow wadi of red sand rising between two rocky plateaus. Tension grips the passengers as the vehicle fishtails wildly and as our driver assumes the air and intensity […]