Travel

Quebec’s Lost Coast

Quebec’s Lost Coast

WHAT BEGINS as a nearly imperceptible feeling of movement turns, surreptitiously, into a heavy seesawing that wobbles my beer in its glass. The dining room servers, going from smiles to poker faces, move to-and-fro like tightrope walkers in peril. Outside, surly waves the size of box mall stores churn and roil in the mid-day sun […]

Churchill: On Canada’s Arctic Edge

Churchill: On Canada’s Arctic Edge

“You’re out here on as good a day as you’ll ever get,” shouts the guide as he throttles the engine of our inflatable boat, steering it towards the mouth of the river. Decked out in a wetsuit and snorkelling gear, I sit on the edge of the speeding vessel like a special operations frogman, riding […]

A Journey to Turkish Kurdistan

“In less than two hours you will arrive at the end of the world,” said Mehmet, the owner of the teahouse where the minibus bound for Bahçesaray departs. Our long morning of animated conversation came to an end as I squeezed into the small vehicle overloaded with passengers and their cargo of pickles and cooking […]

New Orleans: The Vibe Survives

New Orleans: The Vibe Survives

Along Bourbon Street, the night is reaching its crescendo. Groups of partygoers pass by scores of live-music joints overflowing with clientele. Men in red uniforms wheeling food carts serve the empty-bellied, while calling out their culinary offerings in thick Louisiana accents: “Po-Boys!”, Jambalaya!”, “Muffulettas!” A few blocks away, a small crowd stands transfixed at the […]

Simply Sarajevo

Simply Sarajevo

“Let’s put this pedal to the metal,” proclaimed my driver in heavily-accented English as he ran his beat-up car along the gauntlet of turns on the Igman Mountain Road. Adam, a 20-something bed-and-breakfast owner, was full of mispronounced Americanisms and repeated offers of cigarettes that afternoon as he raced back to catch the beginning of […]