Moose Factory, Moosonee, Ontario, Canada
Adventure, Features

Moose Factory Tough

The Ontario Northland Railway station in Cochrane – a sleepy Franco-Ontarian boreal hamlet and the birthplace of Tim Horton – looked every bit the embarkation point to places off the grid. A mob of passengers waiting to board the 9:00am…

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Kitlope, Great Bear Rainforest, British Columbia, Canada
Adventure, Travel

Kitlope Journey

We are in zodiacs, cutting a frothing wake against a torrent of snowmelt running into the sea. Our boats veer towards land and approach the edge of a wide estuary, its banks rising several feet above us. After tying to…

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Dhow ships moored at the dhow wharfage, Dubai, UAE
Middle East, Travel

Dubai’s Dhow Wharfage

At first I barely registered his gaze: the subtle yet piercing look of that almost nondescript, middle-aged man in the bluish-gray shalwar kameez. I had no idea how long he’d been there. But from the moment I noticed him he…

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A man walks on the outskirts of the town of Timbuktu.

The Timbuktu Delusion

Tahir Shah’s Timbuctoo has arrived with eerie, serendipitous, timing. In the months leading up to its publication, a coup d’etat and ensuing power vacuum in the West African nation of Mali has resulted in extremists taking over the country’s north…

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The town of Shaqlawa in the Kurdistan region of Northern Iraq.
Adventure, Features, Middle East

The Kurdish Miracle

Approach any border crossing—those gateways along imaginary and often arbitrary lines—and chances are, even in the best of times, you’ll be met with a certain dose of concern. But when that portal lies smack in the middle of the most…

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Middle East, Travel

Adventures in Old Sana’a

“So, this is your first time with us!” exclaimed Abdulrahman al-Anesi with a dose of laughter and feigned surprise. “May Allah bring you back again and again!” Al-Anesi, my airport pickup, whose jewel-bedecked jambaya dagger sat at his midsection like…

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