Arabian Gulf

Adventures in Old Sana’a

Adventures in Old Sana’a

“So, this is your first time with us!” exclaimed Abdulrahman al-Anesi with a dose of laughter and feigned surprise. “May Allah bring you back again and again!” Al-Anesi, my airport pickup, whose jewel-bedecked jambaya dagger sat at his midsection like a monstrous scimitar waiting to be unsheathed, was full of smiles and colourful teeth. Nothing […]

The Most Important Nowhere on Earth

The Most Important Nowhere on Earth

In brackish Arabic laced with Farsi and Hindi, Captain Abdul-Fatah al-Shehi orders a young deckhand to steer his boat along a sharp bend in the coastline. As the wooden dhow veers from the open water into a rocky inlet, al-Shehi grins with satisfaction, the vessel now navigating a course of placid water between two desolate […]