Border Areas

Quebec’s Lost Coast

Quebec’s Lost Coast

WHAT BEGINS as a nearly imperceptible feeling of movement turns, surreptitiously, into a heavy seesawing that wobbles my beer in its glass. The dining room servers, going from smiles to poker faces, move to-and-fro like tightrope walkers in peril. Outside, surly waves the size of box mall stores churn and roil in the mid-day sun […]

Syrian War Rattles Lebanon’s Northern Border

Syrian War Rattles Lebanon’s Northern Border

Descending the winding road through hills of scrub brush into Lebanon’s region of Wadi Khaled, one encounters a number of oddities absent in other towns along the way: makeshift tent villages, mobs of dishevelled children, and a palpable sense of morose apprehension visible in the body language of local residents. Situated at the northernmost tip […]

A Journey to Turkish Kurdistan

“In less than two hours you will arrive at the end of the world,” said Mehmet, the owner of the teahouse where the minibus bound for Bahçesaray departs. Our long morning of animated conversation came to an end as I squeezed into the small vehicle overloaded with passengers and their cargo of pickles and cooking […]

The Colonel’s Caravan – Travelling in Egypt’s Western Desert

The Colonel’s Caravan – Travelling in Egypt’s Western Desert

“Hit the gas hard and stay on my tracks,” our driver orders into the radio before stepping on the accelerator and catapulting us up a long and narrow wadi of red sand rising between two rocky plateaus. Tension grips the passengers as the vehicle fishtails wildly and as our driver assumes the air and intensity […]

The Most Important Nowhere on Earth

The Most Important Nowhere on Earth

In brackish Arabic laced with Farsi and Hindi, Captain Abdul-Fatah al-Shehi orders a young deckhand to steer his boat along a sharp bend in the coastline. As the wooden dhow veers from the open water into a rocky inlet, al-Shehi grins with satisfaction, the vessel now navigating a course of placid water between two desolate […]