Middle East

Dhow ships moored at the dhow wharfage, Dubai, UAE
Middle East, Travel

Dubai’s Dhow Wharfage

At first I barely registered his gaze: the subtle yet piercing look of that almost nondescript, middle-aged man in the bluish-gray shalwar kameez. I had no idea how long he’d been there. But from the moment I noticed him he…

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The town of Shaqlawa in the Kurdistan region of Northern Iraq.
Adventure, Features, Middle East

The Kurdish Miracle

Approach any border crossing—those gateways along imaginary and often arbitrary lines—and chances are, even in the best of times, you’ll be met with a certain dose of concern. But when that portal lies smack in the middle of the most…

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Middle East, Travel

Adventures in Old Sana’a

“So, this is your first time with us!” exclaimed Abdulrahman al-Anesi with a dose of laughter and feigned surprise. “May Allah bring you back again and again!” Al-Anesi, my airport pickup, whose jewel-bedecked jambaya dagger sat at his midsection like…

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Features, Middle East

Egypt’s Window on the World

“My whole life was preparation for this job,” says Ismail Serageldin, as he flashes a wry smile and gazes out of his fifth-storey office window overlooking the Alexandria corniche. What might otherwise seem like an unusual comment coming from a…

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