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How anyone could know where to drive off a flat desert highway without the benefit of landmarks or a GPS, to find a little known fortress that is poorly depicted on maps and hidden in a wilderness of rock, was…
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“You’re out here on as good a day as you’ll ever get,” shouts the guide as he throttles the engine of our inflatable boat, steering it towards the mouth of the river. Decked out in a wetsuit and snorkelling gear,…
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In Kurdish eastern Turkey, until recently the scene of a protracted guerrilla war, calm, hospitality and peace are becoming the norm.
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Approach any border crossing—those gateways along imaginary and often arbitrary lines—and chances are, even in the best of times, you’ll be met with a certain dose of concern. But when that portal lies smack in the middle of the most…
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“Hit the gas hard and stay on my tracks,” our driver barks into the radio before hitting the accelerator and catapulting us up a long and narrow wadi of reddish sand rising between two rocky plateaus. Tension grips the passengers…
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