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As a longtime traveller to far-flung places, I’ve had few occasions to stay in a proper bed-and-breakfast. Tents, cabins and the homes of welcoming locals are all forms of shelter used by those of us who wander the lonely edges…
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At first I barely registered his gaze: the subtle yet piercing look of that almost nondescript, middle-aged man in the bluish-gray shalwar kameez. I had no idea how long he’d been there. But from the moment I noticed him he…
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How anyone could know where to drive off a flat desert highway without the benefit of landmarks or a GPS, to find a little known fortress that is poorly depicted on maps and hidden in a wilderness of rock, was…
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“You’re out here on as good a day as you’ll ever get,” shouts the guide as he throttles the engine of our inflatable boat, steering it towards the mouth of the river. Decked out in a wetsuit and snorkelling gear,…
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In Kurdish eastern Turkey, until recently the scene of a protracted guerrilla war, calm, hospitality and peace are becoming the norm.
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