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You know you’re nearing Meziadin Junction when the more prosaic stretch of spectacular Northern British Columbia highway you’ve been following is brought to life by a rising crown of luminous peaks – and that distant glint grows to become an…
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The Ontario Northland Railway station in Cochrane – a sleepy Franco-Ontarian boreal hamlet and the birthplace of Tim Horton – looked every bit the embarkation point to places off the grid. A mob of passengers waiting to board the 9:00am…
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We are in zodiacs, cutting a frothing wake against a torrent of snowmelt running into the sea. Our boats veer towards land and approach the edge of a wide estuary, its banks rising several feet above us. After tying to…
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“LEAN FORWARD AND GRAB a handful of mane,” our guide, Esther McGhie, shouts. “The horses won’t feel it.” Following a well-worn trail, our steeds begin the steep climb towards a high, treeless plateau. Doing as Esther says, I stand on…
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At first I barely registered his gaze: the subtle yet piercing look of that almost nondescript, middle-aged man in the bluish-gray shalwar kameez. I had no idea how long he’d been there. But from the moment I noticed him he…
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