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Approach any border crossing—those gateways along imaginary and often arbitrary lines—and chances are, even in the best of times, you’ll be met with a certain dose of concern. But when that portal lies smack in the middle of the most…
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“Hit the gas hard and stay on my tracks,” our driver barks into the radio before hitting the accelerator and catapulting us up a long and narrow wadi of reddish sand rising between two rocky plateaus. Tension grips the passengers…
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“So, this is your first time with us!” exclaimed Abdulrahman al-Anesi with a dose of laughter and feigned surprise. “May Allah bring you back again and again!” Al-Anesi, my airport pickup, whose jewel-bedecked jambaya dagger sat at his midsection like…
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“My whole life was preparation for this job,” says Ismail Serageldin, as he flashes a wry smile and gazes out of his fifth-storey office window overlooking the Alexandria corniche. What might otherwise seem like an unusual comment coming from a…
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In the mid-1990s, Abdullah Schleifer, an American professor of media studies at the American University in Cairo (AUC), following up on a lead in the local press, walked into an old portrait studio on 26th of July Street in the…
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